2015 Denton 'Yellow' Chardonnay

Review by Campbell Mattinson
30th August 2017

I certainly wouldn’t want all chardonnay to be like this but I haven’t been quite so struck, or mesmerised, by a wine in quite some time. I opened this yesterday lunchtime and for various reasons I was up late working; after midnight I could still be seen swirling and tasting it. It’s become like a friend to me. I don’t have any concrete details on its making, though it’s been suggested that a) only two barrels were made, b) only one of these barrels has been bottled, the second to be bottled two years hence, c) it was picked super early, at super low baume, and drumroll d) it’s been kept under flor. It’s wax sealed under DIAM cork; it’s packaged in the kind of slender bottle more commonly used to package fortified wines; the capacity of each bottle is 500ml. I had no idea what to expect before I opened it; I thought it might be sweet; it’s not.

If you want to know what’s going on in Australian wine right now then you have to get a hold of this. Just a single bottle or even glass; just to experience it. It’s a perception buster, a mind expander, a sherry-like chardonnay to sit as the cream rather than the cake of what this variety can do. In short, it’s utterly captivating. It’s brilliantly aromatic and brilliantly long, all nuts and dry sherry, florals and grapefruit, candied citrus and fresh nectarine, with sizzling acidity and pearl-like texture. It’s an old head on young shoulders; it’s yesterday and tomorrow. It comes at you at speed and then hangs around forever; I’m 24 hours into its company and, in a good way, feel as though I’m only just starting to find its rhythm. That there is the difference between genuinely fine wine, and fodder; it sees the divide and leaps it. 

Rated : 96 Points
Alcohol : 12.5%
Price : $45, 500ml
Closure : Diam
Drink : 2017–2020

 
 

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Simon Denton